Hidden Behind the Hectic of Tophane: the Time-tested Gözleme of Zehniye Teyze

The busy Tophane Park is brimming with all sorts of culinary establishments. Spread around the clock tower, we can find plenty of culinary variations, from fancy ones to student-price dishes. Sitting concealed among them, TophaneGözlemeci Teyze’s humble building stands very close to the tourist crowd area, apparently not many people know about this place.

Making up the interior, the brick wall comes with a simple table and a few chairs, an array of business certificates, and a unique pan specifically for making gözleme.

“I've been selling Gozleme for 15 years, moving around Tophane until finally, I came to this building”, shared ZehniyeAltın while making gözleme. She single-handedly runs the shop every day from morning until late evening.

Gözleme is a traditional Turkish dish made of thinly rolled dough that is filled with various ingredients, such as spinach, cheese, minced meat, or potatoes, and then folded over and cooked on a griddle or in a pan. The dough is typically made from flour, water, and salt, and sometimes a little oil or yogurt is added to enhance the texture and flavor.

Gözleme is often enjoyed as a snack or a light meal and is popular throughout Türkiye. It can be found in restaurants, cafes, and street food stalls, and it's often made fresh to order. The versatility of gözleme allows for a wide range of fillings, making it a versatile and delicious dish.

Apart from gözleme, Zehniye Teyze can also serve kumru and tost which have special student discounts.

A sense of peace envelops Zehniye Teyze’s shaded eatery. Whether they are tourist, courier drivers grabbing a quick lunch between orders, or couples on a date, diners eat with quiet contentment.

The steady, rhythmic sound of the gözleme making process paired with a quiet environment, completes the picture. Suddenly it’s easy to forget that we are not far from hectic Tophane.